Doubling Up

I have been fortunate that since the beginning of this European adventure I have had my husband by my side, not only supporting me in my decision to sign on to the staff at Neuchâtel Junior College, but also coming to Switzerland with me to live - at least for the first three months.  Like me, he loves travel in Europe. In fact, he has done much of the research about where to go on weekends.

Enjoying Little Venice in Colmar

As we entered the second half of October, and Bob's time here was coming to a close, he decided to get to as many destinations as he could before he returned to Canada. Some places he visited on his own, but one weekend, we decided that if we went somewhere close by on the Friday afternoon, we could travel a greater distance on Saturday and stay overnight. That is why I am calling this blog entry "doubling up", although it worked out to be quadrupling up.

Baroque Solothurn on the banks of the River Aare

There is no shortage of beautiful places a short distance away from Neuchâtel. Solothurn is one of them. It is described as Switzerland's most beautiful Baroque town in the literature, and it is a mere 33 minutes away by train. From its station, we needed only to walk about 5 minutes, crossing the River Aare, to find ourselves inside the walls of the historic centre of the town.

One of the towers of the old walls of Solothurn and Biel Gate which provides access into the town.

The Italianate Cathedral of St. Ursus in Solothurn. On the left is Basel Gate, an entry point into the old town.

We really enjoyed Solothurn; its small size allowed us to see most of its attractions in an afternoon. Like most Swiss cities we have visited, there were colourful fountains with symbolic significance, a handful of lovely churches, and a gathering place with a clock tower.

The main square and the Zytglogge, a 13th century clock tower.

A typical Swiss fountain and street

Solothurn's Art Gallery, while small, had several good pieces on display, including several by Hodler, a Swiss artist whose works are greatly appreciated in his homeland.

A large Hodler painting at the Kunstmuseum.  

We spent about five hours in Solothurn, plenty of time for us to enjoy a leisurely walk along its winding streets, to take in some art and culture, to purchase (and later, sample) a Solothurn torte - the local specialty - and to shop for bargains.

The next morning, Dan, who had offered to drive us, and Paul too, picked us up and headed for an overnight excursion to Alsace, in Northeast France. We stayed in Colmar, a well-preserved city that Bob and I had not found time to visit on our French vacation in August.

Half-timbered buildings in Colmar

Colmar is absolutely charming. On this Saturday, the town was teeming with folks who had come from near and far to wander its streets. One of our first stops was a church which had been turned into a museum to house the famous Isenheim Altarpiece, a very complex work of medieval art, dating from 1512-1516. It has three sets of wings which open to reveal layers of religious painting and sculpture. Fascinating.

Part of the altarpiece

As we strolled through the town mid-day, we decided to search out a good restaurant for dinner. With so many people in town, we did not want to find ourselves scrambling for a place to eat at the last minute. Luckily, we were able to reserve the last table at Restaurant la Table du Brocanteur, which, according to Trip Advisor, is the best place in town. For lunch, we made our way to a small cafe, Au Pain Doré, that Louise had recommended. We enjoyed our time there.

Paul checks out the menu at Restaurant la Table du Brocanteur

Enjoying Colmar with the boys

We were in no hurry on this day, and there was much to enjoy in the town. Highlights included the very dark St Martin's Cathedral, the elaborately decorated Maison Pfister, and the former customs house (Koifhus) which housed an exhibition of fabrics and handicrafts from the Rajasthan area in India.

Koifhus

Our route eventually took us to La Petite Venise (Little Venice), a district so called because of the canals that run through the area. Like a similar spot in Strasbourg, this was once the tanner's district. On a warmer day, we might have been tempted to take a barge tour, as many others were doing.

Canal reflecting the half-timbered houses

A barge tour in Little Venice

It is no surprise that I wanted to shop in Colmar, especially since sales were on and there were bargains to be had. French prices are more reasonable than Swiss ones, but I must say that I could use a girlfriend, on my travels. The men I was with were no help in helping me decide what I should purchase!

Our dinner that evening at Restaurant La Table du Brocanteur was very special, and quite reasonably priced. Everything was delicious, beautifully presented and served with warmth. When we thanked our waiter, he answered, "Servus". I had never heard this before but apparently that is a common response in fine restaurants in Switzerland too.

La Halle aux Blés in Obernai

The main square in Obernai

In the morning, we drove north to Obernai, one of the many lovely villages along the Alsace Wine Route. Bob and I had visited it in August but for Paul, this was new territory. Here, we all shopped for souvenirs and gifts before heading along the route to another lovely village, Riquewihr.

Riquewihr surrounded by vineyards

A beautiful afternoon in Riquewihr

We chose this spot for lunch and tasted some local wine before heading back to Switzerland. It had been a great weekend. We could not have had such a variety of experiences without Dan. How lucky we are to have such a generous colleague and the company of our new friends!

Tasting Riesling in a Riquewihr Wine Cellar