Thursday, October 9, 2014

Day Trippers

I am living in the middle of Europe, in one of the most beautiful countries of the world. When I decided to take the leap and accept an offer to work at Neuchâtel, I did so with a mind to see as much as I could of Switzerland and the countries that surround it. To that end, Bob and I travel to nearby places when time allows. In September, we journeyed to both Lausanne and Fribourg. Just as we expected, we enjoyed both day trips.
I love these banners hanging above this street in Lausanne.
Our day in Lausanne occurred over a month ago, during orientation week when students and half of the staff were in Grindelwald. It is a mere 40 minutes away by train.
Chateau Saint -Maire near the Cathédrale
Lausanne is dominated by its cathedral, perched at the summit of one of the three hills that make up the city. The largest church in Switzerland, the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame was begun in the 12th Century, and has several outstanding features, including its masterpiece, a 13th century painted portal.  In the Cathédrale area is also a University, and the Chateau Saint-Maire, now used for municipal offices.
The Cathédrale Tower

Part of the painted portal.
From this high point (to which we ascended on foot, by the way), we worked our way down into the old town where we wandered the streets looking at the sites; these included several churches, a medieval tower, a "brocante", and Place de la Pelud, the old town square with its animated clock with mechanical figures. This landmark was the main recollection I had of Lausanne from my visit seven years ago.
The old town square - Place de la Pelud
The soldiers in the clock. They march every hour.

Brocante in Lausanne
The medieval tower in Lausanne.
Our trip to Fribourg took place two weeks later, on a Friday afternoon after I taught my classes. Like Lausanne, Fribourg is less than an hour away by train. Unlike Lausanne, we knew very little about this destination before we arrived. What a charming surprise this place turned out to be! It is a well preserved medieval town, with many fine buildings.
One of the city's many fountains (this one from 1525), in front of the Rathaus (City Hall).
Colourful stained glass window in Fribourg's cathedral
Typical of the Swiss cities we have visited, Fribourg is built on hilly terrain, so we were always either ascending or descending as we did our walking tour. From the train station, the route slopes gently downhill through a pedestrian area full of shops towards the Rathaus (City Hall) in the middle layer of the city. It was here that we began to follow what I will call "the fountain trail". Like Bern, Fribourg is dotted with beautiful fountains, and I was determined to find them all that afternoon. Nearby also was the cathedral and two other noteworthy churches, all of which we visited. (Two other fountains, too!).

A nun visits the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre in Fribourg Cathedral
The gothic Cathédrale St-Nicholas is noted for its tower which can be seen from many vantage points in the city, as well as its stained glass windows and a group of 15th-century life sized statues depicting the entombment of Christ.
Espace Jean-Tinguely-Niki de Saint-Phallo (modern art gallery) next to the Basilique de Notre-Dame
At the end of the Grand Rue, there is a steep descent to the lower town. Here we were often very close to the River Sarine, and the feeling was of a small provincial town with its covered bridge and grazing sheep - and more fountains, of course. From this perspective, we were often looking up towards the cathedral tower in the distance. The weather was ideal, as the photos below show.

Looking up at the Tour des Chats in the Old Town

The Pont de Berne over the Sarine
The view towards the cathedral quarter from the Lower Town
The granary building and another fountain.
Having walked all day, we climbed up and up and up to the highest perspective, the University campus, where we were rewarded with another view over the city.
Looking down toward the Cathedral
Tired, but happy, we trudged to the train station and headed home.

Lausanne is the larger and more important of the two cities we visited, but we enjoyed quieter, more rustic Fribourg more. Still, you cannot go wrong in this country.








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